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Hello

Help me with the following problem before losing 410GB+ of vital information on HDD.

Scenario

Since the clean install in the late fall of 2009 my friend did a clean install of OS Windows 7 Ultimate (built 7600) on the fresh new hard disk drive thatís on myPC today.
After some time that ISO copy had to be validated with remove WAT to initiate the process of activating the OS and hopefully passing it through M$ and making it genuine...Oops; kb 971033 really gave me immense problems as the black screen of doom and the annoying This Windows is not genuine message in the right hand corner of the screen is ominously present there today.

In the System image (Computer>Properties> Control Panel>System and Securities>System) the icon of a boring (yawn) grayish Apple is present for the 64 bit version of Win 7 Ultimate including Product ID locked Ė by mistake to Apple.This key isnít possible to either change or reactivate as it isnít recognized by apple.com nor by M$ and (not that I must have the original Windows Defender or Windows Firewall working, but the updates that M$ launches do in fact keep my PC quite at top notch working very fast) although the installed software prior to the now actively running 64 bit version was the 32 bit alternative, it seems only logical to have it running at those speeds again; not overclocked for gaming.

I donít want to lose any of the files from Outlook 2007 Enterprise (registered in my name), business contacts, VIP files, Skype (sorry for advertising), Printers, Webcam, CAD Blueprints, family albums with pictures and videos, Ö .

Therefore, prior to starting the endeavor of totally wiping off the whole 500GB of information on the HDD, Iím being very cautious to not do an irreversibly stupid act of no return once started with unpacking the new copy of the ISO Windows 7 Ultimate including SP1 from my desktop Ė that copy isnít the one Iíve got running on now. According to the thread ďWin 7ís no-reformat, non destructive reinstallĒ by Fred Langa, there will not be any problems as the ISO including SP1 acts as some kind of backup during the repair installation. Once this task has been performed, I guess that new registry key is given to activate the OS through M$ Windows ie 10, so the software becomes legitimate with the Genuine star by M$ and as a result from the patch Tuesdays the updates can yet again be installed.

Additional information

Two months back, as an administrator I did a scannow that showed NO problems with the OS and no repairs had to be done.

Thank you for posting the right step by step instructions on how to perform a full repair install for Win 7 Ultimate without losing any important data that my slightly limping OS needs to undergo.

Addicted




Edited by WyllyWylly to correct bold formatting and add numbered list. See the online help.

I just had a crash with a transient blue screen (less than a second) and promptly the computer rebooted. Microsoft OCA (Online Crash Analysis) said it was a driver and so do statistics--I have heard MS say around 60-70% of XP crashes are driver mediated according to what they collect. I recently installed the Nvidia Driver Version 40.41Beta for XP 2000 from their site--didn't like the color and installed a Dell for XP that was most recent. I didn't like it's color although the texture was finer it seemed, and things were okay, so I decided to leave things alone for awhile. This raises some questions--hope I can get some help.

Its good that the blue screen was less than a second--the 21A I had for days was hard to deal with. But I couldn't read it. I copied the error message which was:
BCCode : 10000050 BCP1 : FE9D5000 BCP2 : 00000000 BCP3 : F4A2B625
BCP4 : 00000000 OSVer : 5_1_2600 SP : 1_0 Product : 256_1
YOU HAVE RECOVERED FROM A SERIOUS ERROR.

C:WINDOWSMinidumpMini092602-01.dmp
COCUME~1ADMINI~1LOCALS~1TempWER4.tmp.dir00sysdata.x ml

I know you can configure the information relating to "dump" at the Advanced tab of Sys Properties, under debugging information--it may have nothing to do with the crash or error reporting but since "minidump" is in the error message--I want to find out the relationship and if there is an optimal way to configure this.
First thing I did after I rebooted, was to uninstall the new Dell video driver I suspected of being the reason for my crash. Instead of a blurry image, or no image, or a fuzzy magnified image like the time when a video driver was corrupted (mimicking Safe Mode's apperance without Safe Mode in four corners), I have good color, but moving windows has a jello like "feel" instead of zipping along. Just wonder why?
When the computer rebooted, it had the New Hardware Wizard icon in the sys tray, and I have a box up that is titled "Files Needed". It says "The File nv4_mini.sys' on NVIDIA Windows 2000/XP Driver Library Installation Disk 1 is needed. I don't know what this means, because I've never had any Invidia Disk--my video card is OEM from Dell--GeForce2.
Below, it says "Type the files from c:docume~1admini~1locals~1temppfta1~tmp"
My big question, besides how to set the dump feature under debugging optimally, is which driver do I choose?--since the last two give me a color scheme I don't like as well but that only shows up on icons--I don't play a lot of games yet.Also should I have uninstalled the driver before I put in a new one. I know that the newer sound drivers have an automatic uninstall in the install wizard, but I wasn't sure whether to uninstall this driver. When I replaced the last one, I didn't uninstall.

Is there a rule on uninstalling drivers before you install them--video or sound. Would really appreciate some input.

Thanks,

defrag




Hello everyone,

My computer is:
A three year old Medion (I believe the modle is PC mt5, but that could be a number for something completely different)
XP Home
2.4 ghz P4
512 pc2100 (2x256)
BFG geforce 6800 gt OC (installed a few months back)
120 gb Seagate HD

Here's the story:
I recently had a sound card installed by the guys at Best Buy, God knows why I didn't just install the thing myself, anyway, they called, said it was working, and I took it home.
Once home it booted up, and I was having fun calibrating the surround sound (on my new 7.1 which was my birthday present), then decided to try a game, I picked Battlefield 2. After inserting the dvd for the game I noticed the first of two problems, this being that auto run didn't come up, then I went to My Computer and my dvd rom drive wasn't even displayed there. I then tried to run it from the short cut, and the second problem occured, I got an error message something like "~.e5000" (but I am NOT sure if that was exactly it). I then try a couple other games, and software aplications, same type of thing. I then call Best Buy back and the guy there tells me that service pack 2, which they had just installed, includes lots of secruity updates, and thus I would have to re-install a great portion of my software. Then about two minutes later I decide to restart the computer, thinking that it might bring back the dvd drive, instead it gets through the memory test and gives me an error: "A disk read error ocurred". This happens again and again, so I take it back in to *shudder* best buy. And its with them for another 2 days, just to have them call up and tell me that all of my partitions have died, a harddrive failure, but that physically everything is working perfectly, and all I need to do is reinstall the OS. I have the restore disk, and I'm pretty mad at this point, but at least I'll have my computer working agian, right?
WRONG! I get it home and put in the restore cd and try to boot it and it says "press any key to boot from CD..." and I do and it says "Setup is checking your system hardware configuration". then after ten seconds later that disapeers and its a black screen. I left it like that for a good half hour after the third try, nothing. If i dont pres a button to boot from cd it says disk read error again.

ANY help as to what might have caused this, what might be wrong, or what might fix it would be greatly apreciated.
(bad IDE controller? bad power supply? etc)

PS - I just noticed that when it is booting bios, or whatever it boots before the OS, it says the CPU clock speed is 1.8ghz when its always said 2.4ghz. (don't know if thats important but I might as well include it)

Thanks,
Ian Flanagan




SoftCAT is a database program designed to help you organize your software. Not only will SoftCAT help you know what you have and where it is, but it will also help you keep track of important information like serial number, registration name, and other registration information. You never know when you NEED this information!

More than 20 data fields will help you track information like program title, version, publisher, platform, type (commercial, freeware, shareware, etc.), category (Desktop Enhancements, Games, Utilities, etc.), price, installation date, installation folder, product homepage, serial number, and registration name.

You can password protect your database to prevent unwanted users from opening your database. Use the backup function to make backup copies of your valuable data. SoftCAT uses pop-up menus for quick access and navigation. SoftCAT comes with a sample database to get you started and a comprehensive context-sensitive on-line help system.

SoftCAT is intuitive and easy-to-use, and you will soon find that SoftCAT is all you ever need to keep track of your software. And remember, SoftCAT is ware!

I've used this myself in the past - good program!

Alan




For the past two weeks I have been getting continuous crashes if I have more than 4 IE 6 browser windows open. The crash creates a message that googletoolbar1.dll has caused the problem. I have explored everything at the Google site, have attempted to disable the dll through my add ons, including going to MS to download their add on manager for hidden add ons tool.

Google has been less than helpful and I have tried all the fixes they recommend. I know that the easy fix is to just uninstall Google toolbar, but I use it all the time, and I want my cake and want to eat it too! This is a recent occurrence and I can't figure out why it is happening.

These are the troubleshooting steps I have taken:
1) uninstalled/reinstalled Google Toolbar twice with add/remove programs
2) installed the add ons tool from MS to show hidden add ons.
3) Run a full system virus scan with both McAfee and an online Micro Trend House Doctor with nothing found
4) Disable the add on Google toolbar helper. (It recreates each time you open a browser, so unless you do a complete uninstall, it doesn't work!)
5) Written Google and posted on their forums. Received two "lovely" form letters to research their forums and FAQ which I had done already and had written in my request for assistance!
6) Ran a complete check disc and defrag
7) Ran Ad-Aware and Spy blaster and verified that they were not the reason for the Google crashes. No blocks on Google in either. (Figured this out after I blocked myself from being able to access Pogo games with java activex controls!)

OK, so I am going nuts here. I WANT my Google toolbar, and I would really like to stop crashing! I was finally able to figure out that only happens when I have opened a 5th browser window. I doubt that I am going to modify my working style soon, so if I can get my system to work without having to do that, I figure with the combined genius I have seen on these forums, you might come up with many suggestions that I in my limited knowledge would have thought of! (darn dangling participles)

Anyway, please help, offer advice, kick me in the bumm, whatever. I need y'all!

Hugs,
Theresa




Hi wonder if anyone can help.
My Lenovo SL510 laptop was running slow.Gave it a spring clean and all seemed better.It only had 2BG of RAM and was told upgrading the RAM would speed things up.
So not being a techie took the plung and upgraded meself to 8GB a matched pair of 4GB "bits".
Cost me £35 and I thought I would be a happy Bunny with a super fast Laptop.
However I noticed that under the information window for my computor it says 8GB installed but only 2.84GB usable.
It then transpires that to make the full use of this upgrade and me 35 snots spent that I need to upgrade from 32 bit to 64 bit.
To add to the pleasure you cannot just upgrade keeping all your files programmes settings etc etc but its a new install.
I cannnot afford any more cost really (had to pay me taxes to wards the 2012 games ) and am not confident to do a re install.
Anyone know any other fixes that might speed things up and help me.
Thanks
Laurie




I am having a Direct X problem. Well full screen game problem altogether. I cannot play any games that could before on my Pc. It either gives me an error message and needs to close, says "Direct Draw accelerator may be off. Run DXDAIG" I did and went though all the test and passed. It was on and working. Sometimes it would say requires and 1.1 pixel card yours is 1.0 do you wish to continue? I said Yes then it game with an error message. I don't know what to do. I am getting to the point of reinstalling Windows with a clean install.
Any help would be great.

--Talesan




Hi to all,

I have Photoshop CS5 installed on my Dell Inspiron 530 Desktop computer running 64 bit Windows 7. I would like to use the OpenGL function but my video board will not handle Adobeís minimum requirements so I bought a MSI R5450 Graphics card as a replacement. Now I find that my DELL has a 300W power supply and MSI ďSuggestsĒ a minimum of 400W for this board. If I install this card will it work or create major problems? I donít play any games so I donít need faster animation redraws but I donít want to burn up my present power unit until I possibly replace it with a more powerful unit.

This creates another problem Ė How do I find out what power units will fit in my computer? Are they normally, remove a couple of screws, put the new one in place and replace the screws or something more involved like cutting or altering the case? I am a senior citizen newbie with a minimum amount of computer expertise so is a power unit replacement something I can do myself or best left to a computer repair store? Of course, I am trying to do this with a minimum of cost. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Respectfully, Graphics Guy




A little knowledge combined with some money is a dangerous thing. But this is how we learn.

I decided to buy my first new desktop in nearly 8 years. It has a 20 GB SSD on the mother board, a 230 GB SSD drive, as well as a few 1 TB drives from the old machine. (Iím a hoarder of some things!) I was using 32 bit, the new machine is 64 bit.

The guy who assembled it made the small SSD the C: drive. (The other SSD is N:.) Needless to say (for this group), I have quickly filled the small SSD with the Win7 OS, a bunch of junk that loaded with Windows (games, explorer, journal, mail, media player, photo viewer, et al) and associated user files and stuff. I have tried to install new stuff on the larger SSD (office, programs, etc). (Though a previous thread from Tinto Tech said I should move my large PST file back to a mechanical drive.) New programs that want to load to C: by default create an error message that C: is full.
So, lotsa questions:

What is an easy way to make N: the C: drive? If that means reinstalling Windows to N:, so be it. But I already have 32 bit Windows I gotta get rid of that is on a mechanical drive (the old boot drive of the old machine). And now I have the 64 bit on C: (small SSD). So how would I go about it?So many program installations default to the C: drive. Is there a way to get them to ask if they do not do so in the installation? I want the program, I just donít need it on the SSD.How do I move (or reinstall) associated junk I donít need on an SSD to a mechanical drive while keeping the exe and associated (needs to run) stuff on the SSD? (Like Publisher on SSD, but clip art on mechanical; Word on SSD, but borders, languages, samples, or Excel & PowerPoint Ė rarely useóon to a mechanical.)What is a good use for the 20 GB SSD after I transfer itís stuff to the larger SSD? I do a lot of audio, photo, and soon video editing, and Iíd like to have the thing Iím working on be on an SSD while Iím working on it, but it could easily live on a mechanical drive. But I'm afraid of deleting it before I saved it back.Two of the 1 TB drives that came from the old machine report that they are failing. They worked fine in the old machine and gave me no trouble. Coincidence, damaged in swapping them, false positive, ignorable, what?What arenít I asking that I WOULD ask, if I only knew to ask it?
I know this is a lot to ask, and Iím embarrassed at how ďnewbieĒ it is, but I also know you can save me lots of time and mistakes that make it worse before it gets better. And I want to learn this.

Many thanks for your help.


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